One ingredient, answered six ways.
Every post here takes a single ingredient and asks the two things a label cannot tell you: what it actually does, and whether that changes depending on who is putting it on.
The first half is the ordinary answer, written from the trials that exist and honest about what they did not measure. A number of these ingredients are sold on a claim the evidence supports weakly or not at all, and saying so is more useful than adding another enthusiastic paragraph to a search result full of them.
The second half is the part general skincare writing leaves out, because a single article has to pick one reader. What moves for someone pregnant, someone breastfeeding, someone postpartum, someone trying to conceive and someone with PCOS, and which body published the instruction that moved it. Where nobody has published one, the post says that rather than filling the gap with an inference.
These are the long form ones, and they are not the whole answer. The catalogue carries a shorter entry for every flagged ingredient in the database, which is the thing to reach for when you are standing in a shop holding a bottle. A post here is for the evening you want to understand why the answer is what it is.
Ingredients
Glycolic acid vs salicylic acid: which to use?
Different jobs, not different strengths: one works on the surface, one gets into the pore. Plus the part other comparisons skip, what changes in pregnancy.
8 min read
Ingredients
What does niacinamide do for skin?
Barrier, oil, redness and pigment, at the strengths real products use. Plus the vitamin C myth, and the rare active whose answer barely changes in pregnancy.
8 min read
Ingredients
Shea butter: what it does and who it suits
What shea butter genuinely does, what the evidence does not support, and the tree nut question. Plus the rare answer that does not change in pregnancy.
8 min read
Ingredients
Ferulic acid: what it does in a serum
The real benefit is not standalone: it stabilises vitamin C and vitamin E and doubles their sun protection. Plus what nobody has published for pregnancy.
8 min read
Ingredients
Is salicylic acid safe during pregnancy?
ACOG names it among the acne ingredients you can use in pregnancy. The 2 per cent limit is the AAD's, not ACOG's. Here is what is actually in your bottle.
11 min read
Ingredients
Skincare to stop before trying to conceive
Two medicines carry a published instruction to stop before you conceive, and neither is a cream. The rest of the usual list is pregnancy advice, borrowed.
14 min read
Ingredients
Is retinyl palmitate safe during pregnancy?
It is a form of vitamin A, and the pregnancy lists that name retinol and tretinoin do not name it. Here is what is published, and what is not.
9 min read
Ingredients
Is retinol safe while breastfeeding?
What InfantRisk, Cleveland Clinic, MotherToBaby and the Retin-A label say about retinoids while breastfeeding, where the Truva app differs, and each life stage.
5 min read