Coconut oil for skin and hair: what it actually does

Coconut oil is genuinely good on hair and a genuine problem on an acne prone face, and which of those you get depends on where you put it rather than on what you paid. The profile that actually changes the answer is PCOS, not pregnancy, and that part is usually missing.

By The Truva teamPublished

Answers for 6 life stages12 sources, all linked8 min read

What is coconut oil, and why does the answer depend on where you put it?

Coconut oil is the fat pressed from a coconut kernel, and about half of it is one unusually small fatty acid. A review of plant oils in the International Journal of Molecular Sciences gives the composition as lauric acid (49%), myristic acid at 18 per cent, and everything else in single figures. That one number is the reason this question has two answers instead of one.

Lauric acid is twelve carbons in a straight line, small and flat where most cosmetic oils are large and kinked. On a hair shaft that means it can get inside the fibre, which is the basis of the only hair oil result in this field worth quoting. On facial skin the same saturated fat sits in the follicle opening and stays there. A review of cosmetic oils in ACS Omega lists coconut oil’s drawbacks, and the first is highly comedogenic.

So the honest answer is a split rather than a verdict. Coconut oil is genuinely good on hair, a real risk on an acne prone face, and unremarkable on the rest of the body. Anybody selling it as a miracle, and anybody calling it poison, is answering half the question.

Does coconut oil actually do anything for hair?

Coconut oil reduces the protein your hair loses when you wash it, which is a measured effect and an unusual thing for a hair oil to have. The finding is from a study by Rele and Mohile in the Journal of Cosmetic Science in 2003, and a review in the International Journal of Trichology reports it: coconut oil was the only oil found to reduce the protein loss for both undamaged and damaged hair when used as a prewash and postwash grooming product. Sunflower oil and mineral oil, tested the same way, did not.

The reason is physical, and it is also why most hair oils do nothing you could measure. A hair shaft is not skin. StatPearls, on the NIH’s own bookshelf, describes the mature fibre as the hair shaft cuticle, the cortex and the medulla: overlapping scales outside, and the keratin the hair is mostly made of underneath. The trichology review explains that coconut oil, a triglyceride of lauric acid, has a high affinity for hair proteins and is able to penetrate inside the hair shaft, while mineral oil is a hydrocarbon that does not penetrate and sunflower oil is too bulky, not reaching the cortex.

Coconut oil inside a hair shaft, and an oil that stays on the surfaceTwo lengthwise sections through a hair shaft, one above the other. Each shaft has a pale core, the cortex, wrapped in a thinner band on the top and bottom edges, the cuticle, which is marked with short slanting ticks standing for overlapping scales. In the top section, labelled coconut oil, droplets are scattered through the cortex inside the fibre, with two more caught between the cuticle scales on their way in. In the bottom section, labelled mineral or sunflower oil, there are no droplets inside the fibre at all. Instead a thin continuous film lies along the outside of the cuticle on both faces of the shaft, with droplets resting on it. Labels state that lauric acid is small enough and straight enough to pass between the scales into the fibre, that mineral oil is a hydrocarbon with no affinity for hair protein and sunflower oil is too bulky to reach the cortex, and that a surface film still adds shine and reduces friction.Coconut oilIt gets into the cortexLauric acid is small enough andstraight enough to pass between thescales and into the fibre itself.The cuticle is the outsideOverlapping scales, like roof tiles.The cortex under them is the keratin.Mineral or sunflower oilIt stays on the surfaceMineral oil is a hydrocarbon with noaffinity for hair protein. Sunflower oilis too bulky to reach the cortex.A film is not nothingA surface layer still adds shine andcuts friction. It just does not get in.
A hair shaft in section, treated two ways. Coconut oil passes between the cuticle scales and into the cortex, which is the keratin the fibre is mostly made of. Mineral oil and sunflower oil stay on the outside. That difference is the whole reason there is published evidence for coconut oil on hair and not for the others.This diagram is wider than the screen. Drag it sideways to see the rest.

Getting inside buys one specific thing. The same review notes that oils which penetrate reduce the water the hair absorbs and how much it swells, and that this results in lower hygral fatigue (repeated swelling and drying), which is one of the ways ordinary washing damages hair over years.

Two limits belong beside that. This is not a hair growth treatment, nothing in it touches follicles or shedding, and the measurements were made on hair tresses rather than on people. The other oils are not useless either: the same review credits the film they leave on the cuticle with enhancing shine and diminishing friction.

Does coconut oil cause breakouts on your face?

Coconut oil blocks pores, and on skin that already forms comedones it is one of the more reliable ways to make things worse. A review in Frontiers in Pharmacology, writing about the saturated oils coconut kernel oil belongs with, says their application occludes the skin surface and leads to break outs on most skin types, other than very dry skin, due to their high comedogenic properties.

StatPearls calls the result a microcomedo, a small, hyperkeratotic plug primarily composed of corneocytes and the precursor to every acne lesion there is, and it puts oil based cosmetics on its list of proposed contributory factors.

The route most people meet this by is not the face. The American Academy of Dermatology has a page for it, and its first line is that the oils in hair care products can cause tiny breakouts along your hairline and forehead. The AAD calls the result acne cosmetica, and a review in the Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology is specific about which oil. It describes coconut oil applied to the hair for moisturisation, and notes that this practice often leads to pomade acne, which is characterized by numerous closed comedones over the forehead and temples.

If that sounds like your hairline, the AAD’s instruction is to stop and wait, because it can take 4 to 6 weeks for the acne to clear. It also asks you to wash everything your head touched, the step people skip: pillow cases, sheets, caps, hats, headbands. Four to six weeks is a long time to look at a spot you have already stopped feeding, and our post on getting rid of a pimple overnight covers what a single evening genuinely offers in the meantime.

One counterargument deserves an answer. Monolaurin, which comes from coconut oil’s lauric acid, displays antimicrobial activity against the bacterium involved in acne, and that result is real. But StatPearls lists four things happening at once in acne: sebum, follicular hyperkeratinization, C acnes and inflammation. Killing bacteria in a dish addresses one, while the vehicle carrying it blocks follicles, which is another.

Is coconut oil a good moisturiser for the rest of your body?

Body skin is where coconut oil is least contested, and the evidence for it is small but real. The International Journal of Molecular Sciences review reports a randomised double blind trial finding coconut oil as effective and safe as mineral oil when applied as moisturizers for mild to moderate xerosis, which is the clinical word for ordinary dry skin.

The second result is in children with eczema. In a randomised double blind trial in mild to moderate paediatric atopic dermatitis, the review reports virgin coconut oil decreasing the severity of the disease, ameliorating disease severity index (SCORAD), and improving barrier function (TEWL and skin capacitance). Those are the standard measures of eczema severity and of how well skin holds water, and it beat mineral oil on both.

Read that at its actual size. These are individual trials rather than a body of guidance, no dermatology association recommends coconut oil for eczema on their strength, and uncontrolled eczema needs a doctor. Your chest and back have follicles too. Shea butter is the other plant fat people reach for on this job, and our post on shea butter asks the same questions of it, including which named bodies name it and for what.

Is coconut oil safe in pregnancy, while breastfeeding or with PCOS?

Coconut oil reads almost the same across the six profiles Truva answers for, and saying so is more useful than manufacturing a difference. Five of the six rows below are identical, because this is a placement question and a hair shaft is dead keratin whoever is holding it. The one profile that changes the answer is PCOS, in exactly one cell: the face.

Coconut oil at four sites, against six profilesA grid. The columns are hair lengths, scalp skin, body skin and facial skin. The rows are pregnancy, breastfeeding, postpartum, trying to conceive, PCOS and general use. On hair lengths, coconut oil is safe to use for all six profiles. On scalp skin it is caution advised for all six. On body skin it is safe to use for postpartum, trying to conceive, PCOS and general use, and has no published rule for pregnancy and for breastfeeding. On facial skin it is caution advised for pregnancy, breastfeeding, postpartum, trying to conceive and general use, and not recommended for PCOS.HairlengthsScalpskinBodyskinFacialskinPregnancySafe to UseCautionAdvisedNo publishedruleCautionAdvisedBreastfeedingSafe to UseCautionAdvisedNo publishedruleCautionAdvisedPostpartumSafe to UseCautionAdvisedSafe to UseCautionAdvisedTrying to ConceiveSafe to UseCautionAdvisedSafe to UseCautionAdvisedPCOSSafe to UseCautionAdvisedSafe to UseNotRecommendedGeneral UseSafe to UseCautionAdvisedSafe to UseCautionAdvised
Coconut oil against four places you might put it, for each of the six profiles Truva answers for. Five of the six rows read the same, and that is the finding: this is a question about placement rather than about life stage. Two cells move, and both are argued below with the body they came from. No published rule is not a verdict. It marks where neither ACOG's pregnancy list nor the NIH's lactation database rules on coconut oil either way, which is silence rather than a clearance.This diagram is wider than the screen. Drag it sideways to see the rest.

If you have PCOS

PCOS is where coconut oil on the face stops being a caution and becomes a bad idea, and two published lists are why. NICHD’s fact sheet on the symptoms of PCOS names oily skin, and persistent acne that does not respond well to common treatments. StatPearls, listing what contributes to acne, names endocrine disorders, such as polycystic ovarian syndrome in the same list as oil based cosmetics. Together those make coconut oil on a PCOS face a highly comedogenic fat on skin that already will not stop making comedones.

No body has published a PCOS specific rule about coconut oil, and this site does not pretend otherwise: that cell is Truva’s judgement from two published findings, labelled as one. If you want the hair benefit anyway, keep the oil on the lengths and ends, nothing at the roots.

If you are pregnant

Pregnancy does not change what coconut oil does to skin, and no obstetric body has published a rule about it either way. ACOG’s list of over the counter ingredients that can be used during pregnancy covers acne actives and does not name coconut oil in either direction, which is a gap rather than a warning. What ACOG does address is the job people buy it for. On stretch marks it says there is no proof that any of these treatments work, and that a heavy moisturiser may keep your skin soft but will not get rid of stretch marks.

One more line matters if pregnancy has brought acne with it, which ACOG says is common. Its advice is to choose oil free cosmetics and, if you have oily hair, to keep your hair off your face. That is the AAD’s hair oil instruction, arrived at from the other direction.

If you are breastfeeding

Breastfeeding raises one unanswered question, and it is about where the oil goes. The NIH’s Drugs and Lactation Database holds information on drugs and other chemicals to which breastfeeding mothers may be exposed, and it is the body that rules on where a topical may go on a breastfeeding parent. Its index carries cranberry, comfrey, coriander and cumin. It has no entry for coconut oil. Read that calmly: this is a food fat used as an emollient and nobody has raised a concern for LactMed to answer, but silence is still not a clearance.

If you are postpartum or trying to conceive

Postpartum and trying to conceive both return you to the general answer with nothing added. Neither has a published rule about coconut oil, and unlike a topical retinoid there is no proposed mechanism that would give either one a reason to differ. That is a real result rather than a gap in our reading: the ingredients Truva does flag before conception are listed in full, and coconut oil is not among them.

This split is what Truva was built to make. The comparison pages set out why a scanner that never asks your situation cannot make it.

When should a breakout from coconut oil go to a dermatologist?

Acne that has not cleared six weeks after you stopped the product is the point the AAD names for getting help, because by then the product has been ruled out. So is acne that is leaving marks, and acne that is severe, late in onset or not responding to ordinary treatment, which NICHD lists among the symptoms that lead to a PCOS diagnosis.

Key takeaways

Where this came from

Every health claim on this page links to the body that published it. Nothing here comes from another blog.

Show all 12 sources
  • American Academy of DermatologyAre your hair care products causing breakouts?That oils in hair care products cause tiny breakouts along the hairline and forehead, that this is acne cosmetica, and that it can take 4 to 6 weeks to clear after you stop.
  • International Journal of Trichology, via PubMed CentralHair Cosmetics: An OverviewThat coconut oil was the only oil found to reduce protein loss for both undamaged and damaged hair, that it penetrates inside the hair shaft while mineral oil does not, and that surface oils still add shine and cut friction.
  • Journal of Cosmetic Science, via PubMedEffect of mineral oil, sunflower oil, and coconut oil on prevention of hair damageThe primary study behind the protein loss finding, Rele and Mohile 2003, attributing it to lauric acid's low molecular weight and straight linear chain. Note: PubMed serves a cookie wall to scripted fetches and returns HTTP 203; the record was confirmed via NCBI E-utilities and the same finding is independently carried by the PMC trichology review above.
  • International Journal of Molecular Sciences, via PubMed CentralAnti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant OilsThe composition of coconut oil, lauric acid at 49 per cent, and that it is as effective and safe as mineral oil as a moisturiser for mild to moderate xerosis in a randomised double blind trial.
  • ACS Omega, via PubMed CentralA Comprehensive Review of Plant-Based Cosmetic Oils: Chemical and Biological PropertiesThat the first listed drawback of coconut oil in cosmetic use is that it is highly comedogenic and may clog pores and lead to breakouts.
  • Frontiers in Pharmacology, via PubMed CentralThe Enigma of Bioactivity and Toxicity of Botanical Oils for Skin CareThat highly saturated botanical oils occlude the skin surface and lead to break outs on most skin types other than very dry skin, due to their high comedogenic properties.
  • The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, via PubMed CentralClinical Considerations When Treating Acne Vulgaris in Skin of ColorThat coconut oil applied to the hair often leads to pomade acne, numerous closed comedones over the forehead and temples.
  • StatPearls, NIH National Library of MedicineAcne VulgarisWhat a comedone physically is, the four pathogenic events, and the list of contributory factors, which includes both oil based cosmetics and endocrine disorders such as polycystic ovarian syndrome.
  • StatPearls, NIH National Library of MedicineAnatomy, HairThe structure of the mature hair fibre, the cuticle, the cortex and the medulla, which is what the penetration diagram is drawn from.
  • American College of Obstetricians and GynecologistsSkin Conditions During PregnancyThe advice for pregnancy acne to choose oil free cosmetics and keep oily hair off your face, and that the over the counter list does not name coconut oil in either direction.
  • Drugs and Lactation Database (LactMed), NIHDrugs and Lactation Database (LactMed)The full alphabetical index, which carries cranberry, comfrey, coriander and cumin and holds no entry for coconut oil.
  • Eunice Kennedy Shriver National Institute of Child Health and Human DevelopmentPolycystic Ovary Syndrome (PCOS)That oily skin and persistent acne that does not respond well to common treatments are among the symptoms of PCOS, which is what makes a highly comedogenic oil a specific problem on a PCOS face.

Every link above was fetched and confirmed to resolve on .

Truva summarises published guidance from bodies including ACOG, the FDA, the EU SCCS and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review. It has no access to your medical history and it is not a substitute for your doctor, dermatologist or midwife. This post was written by the Truva team from the sources listed above. It has not been reviewed by a clinician, and nothing in it is a diagnosis or a prescription. If you are pregnant, breastfeeding or being treated for PCOS, take the ingredient list to the person looking after you.

The label in your hand, read against your situation.

Truva scans a product and answers for the profile you set: pregnancy, breastfeeding, postpartum, trying to conceive, PCOS, or general use. Every flag names the body it came from, so you can take it to a doctor or midwife rather than take it on trust.

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